Sweater Stientje: stop typing, start frogging.

so, I felt friendly towards Stientje again. I’d really like to finish this sweater in February. This is on big needles and I knit best under pressure so it is do-able. (Normally a sweater will take at least 40 hours of straight, simple knitting with 80 hours being more common. And that’s even without cables or colourwork or having to reknit because you think wishing will make a sweater fit.)

I measured the gauge of my knitting at various places and it comes at about 10,75 st per 10 cm, overall.

I then put the measuring tape around my body and my upperarms, it’s where a yokes sweater would separate for the sleeves. It reads at about 130 cms, sitting comfortably around me.

13 x 10,75 = 140 stitches will do the trick at that point. I counted what I knitted and my stitchcount at that place is about 180…..

no wonder it’s sitting verrrrry comfortably around my body, there’s about 16,5 centimeters of positive ease! Normally 5 centimeters is considered generous.

no wonder I had to decrease like crazy to create the illusion of a waist…. which I did not succeed in, by the way. The sweater is now down to my hips and still has not got any suggestion of waist shaping.

look, bustdarts and waist decreases but still: plenty of space.

so. Best thing to do is rip back to the coloured part (again) and adjust the change from the coloured part to the white part and make it so that there are 140 stitches before I start to knit seriously with the white yarn. The way to do that is: knit one white stitch into each coloured one (to make the transition smooth) and in the next row: decrease as many as necessary.

here’s one more picture showing the principle of a yoked sweater: you increase at a steady rate of 4 stitches every row. This is the rate at which knitting forms a circle.

It really is quite an elegant way of making a sweater.

Once the circle is wide enough you put some stitches one a piece of thread, these will become the sleeves. You then carry on but without increasing, you make a tube which will become the body of the sweater.

(of course there are things that require tweaking, if you are into the higher art of knitting a well fitting sweater. With me, for example, I have to increase enough in the front and in the back due to a glorious bossom and a broad back to carry it. But I do not need those increases in the sleeves since I do not have very big upper arms. So I place my increases accordingly)

(There’s also the risk of having a bulk of fabric at the front, right where the underarm start. A busty gal would continue increasing to cover up her bossom but would end up with way too much fabric, even if she kept a lot of the increases away from the sleeve part, that will accumulate at that underarm divide. With a yoke sweater you have to place those increases with thought and you have to adjust the rate of increases once you about 7 inches from the neck line.)

(With a raglan sweater -that has the same rate of increases as a yoke sweater but places them at a fixed point namely along a line that points straight to your armpits- busty gals have to think twice because raglans will nearly always create a bulge of fabric at the armside, near the armpit. That’s why I prefer set in sleeves myself.)

(Besides, a busty woman really does not need a broad horizontal line form shoulder to shoulder emphasizing how broad they are and the two curves that add to the broadness. Well, rules are to be broken as long as you know what you are doing. I know that by wearing a yoked sweater, I emphasize my bossom and broad shoulders.)

anyway. stop typing, start frogging.

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