Wintertrui 2014: thoughts on bottom band and edges.


I knit with the blue. Made some decreases to suggest a waist. Made some increases to fit my hips. And now it’s time to think about the border at the bottom of my cardigan.

For this I dove back into the Ravelry database.
Looking only at cardigans in aran thickness.

I feel the border at the bottom should somehow relate to the cuffs of the sleeves and to the collar. The plan is a blue border and a blue collar but the sleeves in white.

The main function of the border will be to prevent flipping or curling from the knitting.
Could do in traditional ribbing, 2×2

Here are some inspirational borders from my Pinterest:

simple ribbing. But what nice to have it on the cuffs of the sleeve, longer! I could have it there, when it’s going from blue to white.

But transferring this idea to the collar (sideways) would end up something like DROPS 91-12:

meh… Even in my minty handspun I doubt this collar would whisper: “Ice and Snow and Inner Glow”
or might this look better in a 2 x 2 ribbing? This is a 4 x 4.

This next pattern has aran yarn in 2×2 ribbed sideways collar:

Portland Tweed Fair Isle Jacket by Robin Melanson

hm. hm. hm. I’m scratching my chin.

There’s always i-cord. But that won’t prevent curling of the edge.
There’s seed stitch. That will prevent.
There’s knitting few rows of garter stitch (but this will flip under my hands, it always does.)
Let’s look at what the database offers up:

This one’s nice:
Bambasala by Åsa Tricosa

A rolled hem, one of the sturdiest around, which is allowed to only roll a little bit as one row of garter stitch keeps it in its place. Nice and elegant. And functional.
For me it’d better suited to thinner yarns as I have happened to knit a bit of a stiff fabric and that tends to flip much more (in my knits).

Seed stitch collar:

Wellfleet by Cecily Glowik MacDonald
Perhaps the best solution…. will look good in my textured handspun, allows for a column of YO that can be button holes…
it’s just I really dislike knitting seed stitch. With all the changing of the yarn to the front and the back. (True, I don’t like 1 x 1 ribbing either. Or any ribbing, for that matter.)

I may dislike knitting seed stitch but it does get the job done. And incorporating the button holes will be nice to look at.
Nicer then buttonhole in sideways ribbing.

The more I think about it, the more I dislike the look of sideways ribbing. Sorry Tabetha.

Adrian Cardigan by Tabetha Hedrick
gives a pretty good idea how the front of my cardigan would look. With stockinette stitch panels pretty much stopping mid bust and sideways ribbing taking over, swooping across the torso.

No, no sideways ribbing for my collar. Or my cuffs.

That leaves garter stitch, seed stitch or building up the collar vertically (picking up stitches as you go). That last one is a bit of a nuiscance as you cannot get into the flow of knitting as the rows are so short you have to change direction every 3 minutes.

At the bottom of my cardigan I made a swatch of the three viable options and bind off temporarily to see about the curling. Then I went to bed.
The next morning I looked at my swatch:

There’s seed stitch, a piece of reversed stockinette stitch (rolling downwards) and a piece of stockinette stitch (rolling upwards). Both rolled hems have one row of garter stitch to stop the rolling.

Now some close up looks.

seed stitch:

rolled hem downwards:

rolled hem upwards:

I don’t like any of them. Seed stitch is too much work while knitting (I got ready to gnaw my needles, that’s how frustrating I find seed stitch).
And both rolled hems look too homemade.

If that’s my problem then this is my solution: time to let go of the idea that the bottom edge, sleeve cuffs and collar need to be the same.
Looking at the knitted fabric I see I like the bottom and the cuffs to be ribbed. 2 x 2. With some columns of purls leading into it, to prevent flipping of the whole ribbing band (as it’s prone to do in my knitwear, don’t know why).

Also: pockets!
I forgot about them as I knitted the body downwards. But now I’m thinking I could insert them with a vertical slit between the body and the collar. I’m putting stitch markers in as we speak, so I won’t forget once I start attaching the collar (wether is be vertical or horizontal)

I’m inspired by this beauty:

pattern: Harvest Moon by Heidi Kirrmaier Project and photo by larisa.

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