Outfit for Autumn

This is what I’m wearing today:

handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt

A dress shirt I finished yesterday. It’s wearable, yay!

It’s totally the wrong colour, being warmish beige. But it goes well with my handspun Passe-Partout vest and the mosaic mittens from last winter KAL. With my most sturdy canvas skirt. With two pockets and a piece of curtain strip in the waist band. This baby will never stretch.

Very cute fabric:

This morning I’ll note the changes I want to make to the dress shirt pattern and soon I’ll cut new fabric, in a colour that is on my Winter Colour Palette.

The shape at the underarm needs to be taken a little in at the sideseam. The side seam needs to go up a little higher, into the arm pit:
handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt
The sleeve then needs to be equally elongated to meet the new arm hole/side seam junction.

It sounds uncomfortable, bringing the arm hole higher up in the arm pit. The funny thing is: the closer the armhole is to the body, the more movement is allowed for the arm.

You’d think it’d be the other way around: big hole, big sleeve = wave wildly! With bat-sleeves being the ultimate freedom sleeve. But bat sleeves are a mistake, easily made.
It’s the other way around though, the better fitted the armhole is, the less you drag the whole shirt up when you move your arm.

But the thing is that with small, fitted armholes come small fitted sleeves. And that’s a bit of a problem. Because I have upperarms. They like a bit of room, to fit in all the flesh. Biceps! Let’s say biceps.

Finding that sweet spot between sleeve width and arm hole circumference is a puzzle I’ve been stabbing at for years now. I’ll give it another poke today because I think I’m finally getting somewhere.
handmade outfit handspun vest mittens sewn shirt blouse skirt


3 thoughts on “Outfit for Autumn

  1. Oh yes, the armpit thing. Since I put on weight, anything long sleeved that I buy seems to cut the blood supply to my arms. Cheap chinese crap where they cut out the designer has been my thought, but your points make sense, about movement. It just makes me really selfconscious and uncomfortable wearing sausage skins on my arms too, it’s a conundrum. And there’s no way I have the skill to make something like that shirt…

    • Stretchy fabrics to the rescue! It’s what I’m going to buy if this arm hole thing doesn’t work out. That and jersey/tricot fabrics is what’s all the fashion nowadays anyway.

  2. I totally love your vest, and iirc thread magazine had an article about armscye fitting earlier this year. Which means it might well have been last year. 🙄 Anyway, good luck with the fitting. If you struggle to get enough room for those mighty biceps while avoiding sleeve gathers, how about a two- piece sleeve? That should fix it, I think.

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